Crack climbing is on the more complicated side of things. However, for people who are not very well informed about climbing tend to confuse about what crack climbing is. To put it into simple words, crack climbing is the type of climbing where the climber tends to go behind the cracks of a certain rock terrain using specific techniques and methods. As tough as it may sound to be, crack climbing can get very easy and smooth for you if you have the best crack climbing shoes in your arsenal. And today I will be talking to you about exactly that. So let’s take a look.
Best Crack Climbing Shoes:
- La Sportiva Mythos.
- Evolv Addict Climbing Shoe.
- Evolv Men’s Defy.
1. La Sportiva Mythos:
For a climbing shoe to be the best at crack climbing, it doesn’t have to be the most technologically advanced one. Something simple, old school and with a classic design will work just fine. The La Sportiva Mythos is one such shoe. La Sportiva as you know it is a very well reputed brand and in their wide lineup of shoes, the Mythos stands out as an underrated one. However, that is no problem because the Mythos is more than just a climbing shoe that is entirely focused on performance. There is much more that goes around it.
While most companies out there have shoes that look straight out from outer space with multiple performance enhancements and what not, the Mythos is a completely different one. However, it’s not that La Sportiva does not have high-end shoes, they have that as well. Nonetheless, the Mythos is not like that. Due to my job and passion for climbing, I have had the oppurtunity to test multiple climbing shoes over the years and I can tell you with great assurance that the Mythos is one of the most comfortable ones out there. And comfort was a prime reason why I included this on the list and that is because comfort is very crucial when it comes to crack climbing. Just by looking at it, you can understand that it means business. In addition to the comparatively wide stance, the shoe features a traditional lacing system. Now, before you go on to complain about how this hampers the fit, I would like to tell about the more positive side of it, and that is the comfort. The traditional lacing system allows the shoe to have good flexibility and adjustability as well. The mythos features a leather upper that is not very hard or stiff and this helps to enhance the comfort. In addition, there is also a soft interior lining for keeping your feet cool and dry during those intense crack climbs.
Despite its shape and distinctive fit and feel, the Mythos does not sacrifice in its performance whatsoever. The shape of the shoe will very well wrap the wearer’s feet around and provide good control over cracks. The addition of the laces is a good thing because it will give you the opportunity to get a tight and snug fit all around and once you have the shoe all tightened up in your feet you won’t have any problem whatsoever in facing those cracks.
- Very comfortable.
- Hass a very good stretch to it.
- Provides very good stability.
- Lacks in advanced bouldering.
Also, check out: Best Rock Climbing Shoes For Women.
2. Evolv Addict Climbing Shoe:
Majority of climbing shoes tend to come with traditional lacing systems and velcro closures. And as performance enhancing that might be, for some climbers it might not be the ideal solution. In addition, I would suggest you get climbing shoes that are easy to put on and off. And the Evolv Addict is one such shoe.
At first glance, you may think that this is a driving mocassin or something. However, the Addict is an excellent shoe and judging it by its looks would be completely unfair. The main reason why I decided to add the Addict on the list is that this model was particularly designed for crack climbing. I always say that edging is a very crucial factor when it comes to crack climbing shoes. The Addict despite being a flat designed shoe will provide a very good edging performance overall. And that is because of the fit and feel that the shoe provides. All you need to do is tighten the shoe to an extent that you stay comfortable in. And that would be enough. I say this because the comfier fit that you will have the shoes would perform better on cracks
Being a flat designed shoe you cannot expect these shoes to be good at pockets, and that is exactly the case. The Addict isn’t a downturned shoe and hence they don’t hold well enough on small pockets. However, they still do have a very nice pointiness to them and this does help a great deal. Leather uppers are the standard benchmark for climbing shoes right now and Evolv very well knows that. The leather upper along with the leather footbed provides a very good mix of both fit and comfort. Something that you do not often see on climbing shoes like this.
- Ideal shoe for crack climbing.
- Straight and simple.
- Not very good at edging.
3. Evolv Men’s Defy:
It is becoming very hard to find a good pair of climbing shoes at a good and affordable price as day by day climbing gear is becoming very expensive. Nonetheless, I have you covered here. In the mix of many different expensive shoes out there the Evolv Men’s Defy stands out brightly and the great part about it is that it is very good for crack climbing as well.
Before I go on to say anything about this, I very much want to admire its insanely good looks. Climbing shoes usually aren’t very good looking, however, the Evolv Men’s Defy is an absolute exception. If you are a beginner crack cimber and looking for something that looks and performs the part then you should definitely get the Evolv Men’s Defy. A common misconception amongst most new climbers is that they think that flat designed climbing shoes cannot edge. Well, this is absolutely a wrong idea. Take the Defy, for example, I have personally tried and tested this shoe over the course of time and I have found that edging is considered pretty good on these. Now, I am not saying that they have the best edging out there, because that is absolutely not the case. But the edging is very decent overall. The edging could be way better if the material on the underfoot was sturdier and would have provided more stability. The shoes might feel very slippery when you put them on first, but once you start climbing in them you will not face any problem whatsoever. Among all the other factors, the two ways where the Defy aces are in heel hooking and sensitivity. You will be able to hold and hook on to edges very nicely.
As I mentioned before, the Defy is a very soft shoe and as a result, these shoes are very sensitive. However, do not think of it as a negative factor, because the shoe provides good smearing and will give you the ability to feel every rock you climb. However, if you ask the pessimistic side of me then I would say that the sensitivity will leave your feet unprotected and vulnerable to rocks. So you would need to be extra careful with that.
- Looks good,
- Simple and minimal.
- A bit too sensitive.
How does crack climbing shoes differ?
A particular aspect that you would very well want to keep in mind is the toe shape of the shoe you are getting because this is something that would differentiate a crack climbing shoe from a regular climbing shoe. Keep in mind that the narrower the toe of the shoe will be, the better it would be for crack climbing. However, do keep in mind the fit as well, because you would not want to sacrifice in that category.