The reason behind why I felt to write the review of la Sportiva genius is because it is one of the best climbing shoes in La Sportiva’s lineup. The genius is more of a front-runner in the whole line, and I felt that you climbers should get the opportunity to know how great of a shoe this is.
At first glance, you will realize that this looks a lot different than most traditional climbing shoes out there. And no, I am not going into the shape and structure, but rather the colors. The bright red, black and yellow colorways do really give a very nice look to it. Now, coming to the shape and structure, that is also a bit distinctive as well. For the very first time, La Sportiva has introduced something called “No Edge technology” which in addition to the P3 randing and asymmetrical lacing provides a package that you won’t find in most shoes. The “No Edge technology” is a sort of a very revolutionary aspect, and I will surely talk about that later on.
Now, coming to the upper the shoe features an unlined synthetic suede leather upper. The material will stretch well overtime, keeping your feet comfortable. The upper along with the wider last will provide ample space in the toe box for the wearer to feel roomy and comfortable, without waiting for the shoe to fully break in. The fit on these are just unreal, it literally feels like a glove. Thanks to the P3 platform, there is also a very nice rubber rand that wraps the heel area underneath the sole. This helps to keep the toes in place at the end of the shoe and also keeps the downturned shape of the shoe in position. Despite being such a technically forward shoe, it still has a traditional lacing system and I myself was very disappointed with it. However, that was until I gave it a better look and started testing these shoes. The laces are positioned in an asymmetrical position, making the overall lacing up process very quick and rapid and also keeping the feet very well molded to the shoe.
As I mentioned before, this shoe’s edging capabilities are very different and that is all because of how well the shoe is designed. The no edge concept basically doesn’t require you to be exactly precise while holding on to edges, it will shape in your toe according to how the rock is shaped. This might not seem much, but I can assure you that it did make a lot of difference to me while I climbed with the shoes on and I know the same would go for you as well.
For discussing the toe hooking abilities of the shoe, we would need to get back to the upper again. On the upper, you will notice there are multiple rubber regions. These aren’t there for show, but rather they serve a purpose. The rubber at the top will assist you to get protection in small cracked areas, also giving it the ability to help in heavy or traditional rock climbing.
LIGHT, but can get take weight:
As you may have already seen, the La Sportiva Genius has a hefty price tag. And if you are looking to get a climbing shoe at this price point then you better want to it to be lightweight, and the Genius is. Despite being a shoe that is relatively wider, it manages to balance the weight very nicely. It generates weight and pressure very nicely to the point of your big toe, giving you the precise fit and performance. The precision on the forefoot is so accurate that you won’t have to worry at all about holding on to those small pockets.
Just like it’s P3 technology, La Sportiva has included their signature Vibram XS grip soles on here as well. This in addition to the leather upper provides a very nice mix of comfortability and performance. The midsole is made up from Laspoflex material and will provide powerful support through and through.
- High quality.
- One of the best climbing shoes on the market.
- Looks very good.
- A bit expensive.
FINAL WORDS –
The La Sportiva Genius is undoubtedly one of the best climbing shoes out there, and something coming from the factory of La Sportiva being the best is no surprise. The brand cares about its customers and spends a lot of money and effort in doing the research of their shoes to which affects their final shoes in a great way. The Genius tends to have everything that you could possibly ask for in a climbing shoe. Its asymmetrical design with the sharpness of multiple tricks and technologies makes the Genius something you can’t ignore. Something like the No edge concept is truly revolutionary. There is highly anything that I found worth complaining about this shoe.